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Just outside the Sant` Alessio Oasis we saw
a stork´s nest. We prepare to shoot, after
focusing we will use a remote ML-LS for the
shot.
Using the zoom 18/70 f/3.5-4.5G to the 18mm
lens, ISO 200, f/6.3 1/400.
To the 70 mm lens, f/6 1/300.
with the 70-300mm zoom f/4-5.6 G to the 180mm
f/5.6 1/400, always a 200 ISO.
To the 300mm lens a f/5.6 1/320.
Here we are with the Fieldscope ready to shoot.
We used a 640 ISO to have acceptable timing,
1/320 to the Fieldscope f/13 fixed diaphragm.
The four images on the left were shot, from
top to bottom, with 200, 400, 800, 1600 ISO
with shoot times of 1/100, 1/200, 1/400 and
1/800. In the central column two details referring
to the right and left shots with the same detail
as the shots made with 200 ISO and 1/100 and
1600 ISO with 1/800. In spite of the increase
in grain, the sharpness sensation is greater
at 1600 ISO because the shoot timing is quicker
which eliminates the small movements that occur
in the image shot with 200 ISO. The detail in
question is magnified 18x the original image,
we are therefore in front of a result obtained
with a " virtual 27,000mm lens"!!!
It's not clear if the subject is a log with
many roots or an electrical cable with frayed
copper wires.
The maximum enlargement obtained without post
calculations is this shot made with the Coolpix
5400 and Fieldscope 45x zoom lens. The Coolpix
zoom lens was put on 52.8mm with a digital enlargement
during filming of 2.2x, f/4.6 at 1/660, 400
ISO.
Another detail. The clock tower taken with the
Fieldscope on the left, whilst in the centre
a detail from the left hand image and on the
right a detail taken from the shot made with
a 180mm lens and 70/300 zoom.
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In the Field
We begin with the equipment required:
Fieldscope;FSA-L1, Tripod, micrometric head, double
attachment arm, remote or distance operated reflex,
a good size memory, or a portable computer to connect
to the camera to manage the Nikon Capture program
to check for focal sharpness and eventual small movements
on the portable monitor, Nikon D70 with remote ML-L3,
spirit level with flash slide attachment. We have
worked with a Neotec Manfrotto tripod that has the
great advantage of being opened and closed in seconds
and which has an incorporated handle for easy traveling,
the Manfrotto 408 micrometric head, and D70 and Fieldscope
bag. In this way the moving between places is easy,
not tiring and always with the equipment kept safe.
We remind you that the stability of the tripod is
inversely proportionate to the length of it's legs
and above all of the column: we try therefore to always
work with the legs extended first and the Fieldscope
positioned on top, the last thing the column.
The Fieldscope Settings:
1) Incorporated shade always in the
working position.
2) Check between the Fieldscope used
and the FSA-L1 (it's enough to put a screw on the
FSA-L1 in one of the 4 holes according to the Fieldscope
in use; moving the screw makes micro changes to some
distance parameters of the internal optic group.
3) "Tight" fixing of the
FSA-L1 to the Fieldscope.
4) Anchoring the D70 to the FSA-L1
and fixing screws that allow the camera to rotate
around the Fieldscope axis.
5) Perfect Fieldscope anchoring to
the tripod head – checking every now and then
that the Fieldscope is well anchored to the head,
in our case this has a quick release.
The D70 Settings (or Nikon
digital reflex):
1) Camera leveling, using a spirit
level for flash slide and acting on the FSA-L1 rotating
screws: leveling must be made during filming, in most
cases micro defects cannot be corrected after production.
2) Fixing the main ring to A (diaphragm
priority)
3) Checking resolution and compression
parameters that must naturally be set to maximum resolution,
minimum compression – or even better on RAW
4) Contrast, Sharpness etc: the best
results are certainly obtained working in RAW and
tuning the result after production with Nikon Capture.
If we work with JPG but we intend to edit the image
with Nikon Capture all settings should be set to zero.
If we work with JPG and we don't want to make ulterior
changes after production it's possible to increase
both the sharpness and contrast in all those situations
in which the image would appear too soft, but without
exaggerating.
5) White set balancing, set on "sun"
or "cloud" according to the situation with
eventual micro adjustments varying the colour temperature
with the suitable function – 3/+3; it's also
possible to carry out a White Balance Preset.
6) Spot exposure system setting,
according to the subject reflection: the typical situation
in which the subject, for example an animal is lit
up by the sun with a dark woody background prefers
a spot exposure reading or average to the centre.
7) AF focusing exclusion.
8) Bracketing, according to the situation,
when for example it's not possible to review the shots
just taken, immediately and continually: one must
be very careful to not "overrun" the high
lights: in this experience the delicate feathers of
a white stork´ss neck often are completely "burnt"
in the first shots, corrected then by bracketing and/or
intentional under exposure.
9) Focus Bracketing; the reflex automatic
focus are not the best to use in the manual focus
evaluation through the finder, even if helped by the
manual focus indicator: even if using the Fieldscope
with Nikon digital reflex the assisted manual focus
is activated, it's always better to make more shots
varying by small amounts the Fieldscope ring, to then
choose the most clear picture on the PC; here obviously
a portable PC helps things. However, we can guarantee
that, thanks to the long focals used, above all if
the subject is relatively near – 100/300m –
the difference between a clear picture and an out
of focus one is corrected by rotating 1/10th of a
millimeter the Fieldscope focusing ring; it's better
therefore to make a Bracketing focus, varying by micro
amounts, instead of desperately trying to (often with
scarce results) to see the best focus made through
the camera's finder, also using magnifying lens like
the DG-2.
10) Sensitivity: our field trials
showed satisfying results even working with 1600 ISO.
The Compact Digital settings
with a screw attachment to the lens (Coolpix 950,990,995,4500
etc.):
1) The rules listed above for the
D70 apply with the following to be added;
2) Focus on infinitive
3) Flash exclusion
4) Zoom positioned on the focal enough
to outline on the display the area of a rectangle
image
5) Mandatory use of distance shooting
or alternatively automatic shot
6) Thanks to the fact that the compacts
don't have a mirror they don't have the potential
problem of small movements caused by it turning over,
if one can work with long shooting times – if
the subject isn't moving.
7) If the Fieldscope has a zoom lens
begin to shoot with the minimum magnifying lens then
to be increased.
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Black stork. At the top 400 ISO 1/100, at the
bottom still 400 ISO but with 1/250 sec. If
it's true the quicker the timing the greater
possibility of having a sharp shot, the focusing
and eventual subject movements can also ruin
the image. It's therefore necessary to take
a greater number of shots, trying wherever possible
to vary focusing by small amounts, and above
all, be lucky…
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The Compact Digital Settings
with a screw attachment on the camera body:
We talk about cameras such as the Coolpix 5000,5400,5700
etc, with these cameras there is an adapter for this
purpose, one can however choose between the FSA adapter
or the bar.
1) The rules listed above for the compact digitals
with a screw attachment apply with the following to
be added, in some cases there is a need to put the
camera's zoom on to one of the teledigital positions,
so you will have during filming a shot using the whole
sensor, without having to cut the image and avoiding
image overlap. A trial shoot is necessary when using
any of the above equipment to check the images obtained
on a PC; for every shot as well as EXIF data taken
from the file, it's a good idea to note the filming
and visibility conditions.
It's better to photograph stationary subjects which
can then be shot again, it would also be a good idea
to work from home at the beginning so the results
can be checked on the PC.
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A roebuck "frozen "at 1600 ISO with
impossible shoot time: 1/30 sec.
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